2014 Trip to Oman – Day 4 – Dec 19 Dubai

Neither Trish nor I slept well.  She was awake when I got up at seven.  I think we each got about 4 hours of sleep if you total all the bits together.  The coffee was on and the morning light was lovely on the Burj so we didn’t mind – too much.

We were sitting in the living room waiting for the coffee to perk when Trish glanced out the window and saw a stream of neon yellow-clad runners going by on the street below us. Turns out the 10 km Nike Run Dubai started at 6 am.  Over 25,000 runners participated last year and this year must be similar.  Below us and between the buildings we could follow the entire route.  The roads had been closed to traffic and the runners kept coming around the distant corner from the marshalling area for over an hour!  Pretty impressive!  And that is a lot of T-shirts.

Once the majoirty of the crew was up, washed and fed we were off to explore.  (Carrie didn’t come along – she was probably not wanting to venture into traffic again so soon after yesterday.) Joseph took us to Madinat Jumeriah where there is an indoor souk patterned after the world’s longest-running covered souk in Damascus.  From the promenade at the river’s edge there are lovely views of the Burj al Arab; the world’s only seven star hotel which has become the iconic symbol of Dubai.

                                   A nice setting for a photo or two.

Joseph then drove us to the Dubai Marina to show it to Trish.  He lived there for 6 years and this is where we stayed when we visited him.  There are many residential apartment towers in the area, lovely view-scapes, shopping opportunities – both necessary and exotic – abound and there are a large variety of ethnic restaurants.  The Dubai Marina walk is very popular with both locals and tourists and parking is always an issue.  Joseph very ably navigated a few deep holes in a construction zone lot and parked the car within an easy walk. Oops – Someone else did not navigate the sand too well.All is well in this travelling Canadian’s day!
This is my favourite building in Dubai.  We have been here just often enough to see it progress to completion.  I think it is brilliant.

Then we were off to the Dubai Mall where Carrie was to meet us for lunch.  This is the largest mall in the world based on total area and is ranked 14th in leaseable space with over 1200 shops.

There are four levels of stores, 10 levels to the parking arcade and many people from many cultures with diversely different styles of dress.  Trish was happy, she didn’t need to keep her shoulders and knees covered as she does in Oman. Tank top here we come. Again, Christmas decorations galore.  Trish even got wished a Merry Christmas by a young man in the coffee shop.  We wandered around, just idly looking – except for Trish who was on the prowl for a new pair of Converse shoes. The Dubai Aquarium and Underwater Zoo are located in the center of Dubai Mall but we did not take the time to check them out.   Next trip maybe .

The main event of our touring today was “At The Top,” a ride to the 124th floor of Burj Khalifa – there are 163 in total.  The Burj is 828 meters tall (2722 feet).  The ascent and descent take 1 minute exactly.  Now that is a FAST elevator; it makes yours ears pop.  No glass windows.  I am sure people would not like to see how fast we are moving.  They regulate the number of people going up so there are not hundreds and hundreds milling around at a time.  There is an enclosed platform that juts out from one of the sides of the building and an open slat at differing heights in each window so whether you are tall or small you can stick your hand out, or your camera if you are very careful to have the strap wrapped securely around your wrist. The endless view was incredible and it was surreal to realize that we were looking down on all of the tall buildings that stretch skyward from the ground.  A really, really cool experience.

                                               Mother-daughter photo op                 Selfie time                                   John gives a selfie a try with his SLR. One of the staff potographers posed Trish for a shot on the window sill. The access to At The Top is inside the Dubai Mall so when we came down from the tower we carried on with our mall wandering.  Malls over here put all the stores of similar products together so if you need electronics you can find all the stores near each other.  We located the shoes area and continued the Converse search (which was very successful, two pair for the price of one. Trish was thrilled.
                                             A gold Lambourghini.

The Waterfall. A fountain with sculpted divers on the face.  The wall behind the water is dark so it makes the water flow look the same color as the divers.

To cap off a fabulous day in Dubai we reserved a terrace table at Thiptara, the Thai restaurant Joseph and Carrie had taken John and me for my 60th birthday dinner a few years ago.  The palm trees along the street are all strung with fairy lights so it made a lovely walk from our apartment to the restaurant. The lovely Dubai Fountain plays every half hour and we were close enough to feel the mist from the massive water propulsion.

                             A fountain bowl of poinsetta petals

                  All in all it was a fabulous day with my family.                                       (There has to be some perks for a $600 dinner – Canadian!)

 

 

2014 Trip to Oman – Day 3 – Dec 18 Road Trip

Today we took a road trip.  Trish has never been to Dubai and had said she would like to go if we could arrange it.  Joseph and Carrie had already considered taking a ‘long-weekend’ trip to their former home city.  Work weeks in the Middle East go from Sunday to Thursday with Friday and Saturday being the weekend.  Carrie drove the car with John, Trish and me, and Joseph flew up after he finished work.

The drive from Muscat to Dubai can take anywhere from 4 to 6 hours depending on traffic.  Today was one of the six hour drives.  Driving styles over here are very aggressive and very spontaneous – lane switching, tailgating, speeding, and cutting across lanes are frequent occurences.  It is a stressful drive but Carrie did well.  Her comments and mutterings about the other drivers were never very loud, only contained an occasional expletive and were generally quite mild compared to how it may have been if some of her passengers had been driving instead.

We saw two mild accidents, 17 camels and about 175 goats.  The roadside shops parallel the road for miles out of Muscat.  The towns just run together.  Round-abouts are used and the middle of the circles are often filled with flowers and shrubs or a sculpture or a small building.

There is lots of roadwork being done along the route. Once through all the check points at the border crossing (there were two going out of Oman and four going into the UAE) the scenery changes dramatically.  Suddenly there are sharp craggy peaks, followed by bright reddish-golden dunes which give way to almost white sand and scrub trees and then, just over a small rise, Dubai.

    Desert camping is very popular.  The Burj Khalifa dwarfs all the other skyscrapers.

We rented a three bedroom/two bath apartment with a folding bed for Trish.  The apartment belongs to a family currenly away in the UK.  The couple has 16-month old twins so there are baby toys and paraphernalia stored in corners.                         We have a pretty nice view from the apartment living room.

After we found the apartment we drove to The Lime Tree Restaurant for a bite to eat. Well, we really went there so Carrie could have her Triple Chocolate Brownie, but it was time for food anyway.  Dubai is an ever-changing city and it was quite a challenge to navigate at times.  Carrie kept having to re-envision the city map in her head to get us where we wanted to go.  The final stop of the day was Mall of the Emirates, home to over 560 shops, 90+ restaurants, and the ski hill and winter fun center.  The Mall and the ski center were beautifully decorated for Christmas.  Dubai may be in a Muslim country but they know a commercial windfall when they see one. We arrived back at the apartment a little after 9:30 and Joseph’s taxi dropped him off about half an hour later.  We all had had a very long day so there was no late night conversational lingering before we hit the sack.

2014 Trip to Oman – Day 2 – Dec 17

Today was a quiet day.  Joseph and Carrie went for their morning walk before he left for work.  Trish woke up at 5:30 and turned the coffee on, then enjoyed her first dose of caffeine while reading on her private balcony.  I got up at 7:30 and sliced up all the fresh fruit we bought yesterday before making myself some breakfast.  John slept the longest – lucky fellow.

The morning was spent with all four of us on computers/phones doing whatever it is we all do.  I do know Carrie worked on her ArtistThink website.  She has been posting creativity inspiring articles and interviews with artists and educators for a few years and is now branching out to create an online creativity-course. Trish kept an eye on the sunshine streaming through the window at the top of the stairs to the roof and when it looked high enough in the sky she settled in for some tunes and rays.The neighbourhood looks pretty good from up on the roof.After lunch Carrie, John and Trish went to a different mall to buy bread and a few items to make Christmas cookies.  I stayed at the villa and wrapped all the presents we had brought from home.  More work for Carrie – trying to set up a telephone number online for her new business.  This is not easy to do for an American registered company when she lives in Oman.  Three and a half hours later she was successful.

Joseph leaves the house about 8:30 or so each morning and gets home between 6:30 and 8 pm depending on work and traffic. (Oman has crazy traffic.  Normal rules of the road are universally treated as suggestions – even stop signs.)  He grilled the steaks when he got home and dinner and dishes were finished about 8.  The game we started last night was played until 10 and then everyone was off to bed.  This type of routine will be quite common while we are here; interspersed with some days of sightseeing and activity.  Tomorrow is a travel day.

2014 Trip to Oman – Getting There and Day 1 – Dec 13-16, 2014

John and I decided to spend Christmas with our son Joseph and his wife Carrie in Muscat, Oman.  Since it is half a world away we decided to make the long flights worth while and stay for a month.  Surprisingly Joseph and Carrie were okay with that – well, Carrie was.  Not totally sure about Joseph.  But he said he was willing to put up with us.

We invited our daughter Trish to come along. She had 17 days of holidays she could take so we booked our flights.

Our itinerary was: Fly out of Kelowna, BC to Seattle, WA Dec 13 at 12:19 pm.  1 hour

Fly out of Seattle, WA to Dubai, UAE  Dec 13 at 5:10 pm      14 hours

Fly out of Dubai, UAE to Muscat, Oman Dec 14 at 10:25 pm   1 hour

Arrive at Muscat 11:35 pm Dec 14.

The reality was somewhat different to say the least.  My sister and her husband offered to drive us to the airport and they dropped us off at the terminal at 10:30.  It was foggy which is never a good thing at the Kelowna airport.  Sure enough our flight was delayed.  Then it was delayed again.  Then it was canceled.

The gal at the Alaska Airlines counter was overwhelmed with all the re-bookings and took forever to find us new flights.  The Seattle to Dubai Air Emirates flight the next day was fully booked so alternative airlines had to be found.  She booked John and I on the 12:40 Air Canada flight to Vancouver and the 8:30 flight to Seattle, with an overnight layover.  We would then fly to Amsterdam on Delta at 1 pm Dec 14, have a 3 hour layover and fly to Muscat after a short stop in Dhoha, Qatar, arriving at 9:30 pm Dec 15.  By the time she had all that done the 12:40 flight was closed as it was too close to the scheduled departure time and she could not make a booking for Trish, even though the plane had not yet arrived and the flight was also delayed due to fog.  But… booking was closed so Trish couldn’t fly with us.  She was then booked on another flight leaving Kelowna at 5 so would be in time for our 8:30 plane to Seattle that evening.

Our 12:40 flight finally left at 2:45 and there were quite a few empty seats so if the re-booking had been done quicker Trish could have flown with us.  However just as we were going through security to fly to Seattle Trish texted that her flight out of Kelowna was now canceled as well because the fog had rolled in again.  Not Good.

Multiple texts flew back and forth.  Trish met another couple who were also stranded and they decided to rent a vehicle and drive to Vancouver as the chances were very good that any flights out the next morning would also be canceled due to fog.  Four more people joined in with the plan so seven random strangers crammed all their luggage and themselves into a rented SUV and drove to Vancouver at 7 o’clock at night. A wonderful time was had by all and Trish has six new friends.

After about three hours sleep at a friend’s house she caught an 8:50 flight to Seattle the next morning and waited for us at the gate for our afternoon flight to Amsterdam.  We arrived at the airport at 10 am to have lots of time to get our Delta boarding passes and meet up with Trish.  Delta had nothing in their computer except our names – even though John had gone online at our hotel the night before, found our new bookings and selected seats for us and Trish.  Delta said since our flight was a re-booking by Alaska Air we had to go see them.  We spent over an hour and a half standing at the counter unsure as to whether we would make our flight to Amsterdam. Alaska finally sorted out “the computer error” and we hurried to Delta to get our boarding passes.  The line was lengthy at security but we were assured by a staff person that we would be okay.  We arrived at the correct gate, without seating assignments, as the plane was beginning to board. Trish had the seat we had selected for her last night and we were given the last two seats together 11 rows ahead of her.

We arrived half an hour early in Amsterdam, found a transfer station and got our seats and boarding passes for our flight to Muscat.  Again John and I were together in the two middle seats of the four center rows and Trish was 21 rows behind.  Trish slept almost the entire flight.  I got about 4 hours and John, who had napped on the flight to Amsterdam, dozed a bit while the young fellow in the seat beside him had a good sleep on his shoulder.  The plane was delayed 20 minutes or so in Dhoha due to a valve not opening so the engine wouldn’t start. We got towed back to the terminal where the valve was opened manually, the engine roared to life and off we went.

Joseph and Carrie arrived at the airport just as we walked out the terminal.  It was about a 20 minute drive to their villa and after a tour of the house and a short visit everyone went to bed.  It had been a VERY long, VERY stressful trip and we lost an entire day of our holiday.  However, we arrived safe and sound at our destination so all was well.

  I was impressed that they had put up not one, but two Christmas trees.

                              The next-door neighbours.

Joseph has to work most days during our visit and he was gone by the time we got up.  Carrie, Trish, John and I visited for awhile then Carrie drove us to the ocean-front boulevard to walk along the beach and enjoy the warm weather.  

Then it was off to the grocery store to stock up on food.  We found it very interesting to see the Christmas decorations and ‘treats’ in this Muslim country.  There was even a Christmas tree in the airport, which surprised us all and winter decorations in the mall. All in all it was a wonderful first day in Oman.  We look forward to the rest of our visit.  Some days will be game-playing days where we won’t leave the villa but we have made plans to see some sights and experience some adventures.  You will have to wait and see what we get up to……

 

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2014 Oct 10 – Day 113 – Osoyoos, BC to Salmon Arm, BC

Today was the last leg of our journey.  We arrived home after 16 weeks and 25,165 km.  It was a beautiful sunny day for our drive through the Okanagan Valley.

Osoyoos, where we spent last night is a favorite wintering spot for folks from northern Alberta and BC, and from farmers escaping the winters of Saskatchewan and Manitoba.  The place is packed with RVs and Motor Homes all winter long.  It is also the heart of wine country with vineyard after vineyard after vineyard – and lots of orchards.

IMG_2420 - Copy IMG_2429 - Copy IMG_2435 - Copy IMG_2438 - Copy IMG_2441 - Copy IMG_2443 - CopyOsoyoos is only 3 1/2 hours from Salmon Arm.  We made a short stop at Costco in Kelowna  and drove in the driveway at 2:15.

We have been over this road in whole or in part many times over the years but today I took the time to take some photos for my last blog.

IMG_2451 - Copy IMG_2455 - Copy IMG_2459 - Copy IMG_2462 - Copy IMG_2465 - Copy IMG_2469 - Copy IMG_2471 - Copy IMG_2473 - CopyKelowna                                                                Oyama

We even stopped at the viewpoint south of Vernon overlooking the Coldstream Valley; a place we have driven by hundreds of times.

IMG_2503 - Copy IMG_2504 - CopyFrom Vernon we left the dry land and drove through the fertile Spallumcheen Valley to Enderby.

IMG_2508 - Copy IMG_2515 - CopyA half hour later we were home – to over three months of mail, 45 missed phone calls, 17 messages since I last checked them, overgrown shrubs and hedges, weedy flowerbeds, appointments, meetings and schedules.  Well, it was fun while it lasted.

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PS.  My two favorite signs.   IMG_4546 IMG_2393   Make that three:  We never figured out what this one meant.  There was no roundabout up ahead.    IMG_9944I’ve had fun writing this blog.  I hope you have enjoyed reading it.  Thanks for sharing the journey.    Janet and John

2014 Oct 9 – Day 112 – Coeur d’Alene, ID to Osoyoos, BC

We are back in Canada and back in BC.  We crossed the US/Canada border at about 3 pm this afternoon.  It is nice to be back home; even if we are not actually home yet.  Although I am never anxious for vacations to end.  I enjoy traveling.  I enjoy being away from all the normal routines and meetings and appointments.  I guess I am just an escapist.

We left Coeur d’Alene just after 10 this morning and crossed the border into Washington state a little while later.  Our eleventh state on our return journey.

IMG_2322All of the area west of Spokane, WA is grain farming land.  The after-combining stubble stretched out from the roadside in both directions for miles and miles.

IMG_2325 IMG_2326 IMG_2327 IMG_2330 IMG_2331 IMG_2334 IMG_2335At the little community of Wilbur we headed north on Route 174 up to Grand Coulee Dam.  This is desert country; dry dirt and lots of rock bluffs and cliffs.

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IMG_2366 IMG_2378Grand Coulee is one of the world’s largest concrete structures.  It is a mile long and contains 12 million cubic yards of concrete.  It began operation in 1942.

The Roosevelt Lake behind Grand Coulee Dam stretches back for miles.  It is a very popular recreational area and in today’s lovely warm sunshine it is easy to see why.  It was so nice and warm today we put the top down on Poppy after we had lunch at the Grand Coulee Dam overlook.

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IMG_2340 IMG_2341 IMG_2345 IMG_2348 IMG_2353 IMG_2356 IMG_2362We continued north through Colville Indian Reservation where they have very interesting clumpy rocks scattered all over the hillsides. They remind me of the geological Conglomerate Rock formations that we have seen in other places.

IMG_2371 IMG_2372 IMG_2376 IMG_2380 Once we arrived in Omak we arrived in irrigated orchard territory.  It is so easy to see where there is water.  The hillsides around Omak are barren, dry rock.  Down in the valley there is lush green alfalfa fields, heavily-laden apple trees, and irrigations sprinklers spreading life.

IMG_2387 IMG_2388 IMG_2396 IMG_2403 IMG_2405 IMG_2412 IMG_2414Omak is 46 miles from the USA/Canada border so it wasn’t long before we arrived, went through Canadain customs and drove into Osoyoos for the night.

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2014 Oct 8 – Day 111 – Kalispell, MT to Coeur d’Alene, ID

We made it across Montana at last, and for good measure we almost crossed Idaho.  The drive from Kalispell to Libby was through forested trees along mountain roads.  The dark green of the firs and pines was interspersed with the glorious gold of the Aspens.

IMG_2178 IMG_2181 IMG_2191 A few miles west of Libby (1 mile east of Troy, MT) we turned south on Route 56, a 35 mile stretch of road that paralells the Cabinet Mountains.  About half way down we turned off the main road and climbed 4 miles up a narrow winding road to the Ross Creek Giant Cedars.  A one mile loop trail leads through the forest and back to the parking lot.

IMG_2207 IMG_2212There were some VERY large trees in the grove.  It was interesting how many twinned ones there were and how many had been lightning struck or burned.  The length of some of the fallen ones was amazing.  It was very much like walking through Cathedral Grove on Vancouver Island and nice to see these old denizens of the forest have been preserved.

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IMG_2252 IMG_2247This triple tree has one huge base.    A ‘normal’ size tree (about 2 1/2                                                                                 feet around) growing beside one                                                                                 of the giants.

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The Cabinet MountainsIMG_2272 IMG_2275 IMG_2277When we got to the bottom of Route 56 we turned west again on Route 200 into Idaho.

IMG_2301Just past the border we took another turn off the main road and went to see the Cabinet Gorge Hydroelectric Dam.

IMG_2292 IMG_2294This dam was built in 1952 to overcome the power shortage after WWII.  1700 men and women worked around the clock for 21 months to complete it.  It is 600′ long and 208′ high.  The river was run through two diversion tunnels while the dam was under construction.

Route 200 takes a northerly slant along the coast of Pend Orielle Lake to Sandpoint where we picked up Highway 95 into Coeur d’Alene.

IMG_2307We are now on BC time, having crossed back into our normal time zone halfway across the narrow top of Idaho.

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2014 Oct 7 – Day 110 – Havre, MT to Kalispell, MT

Montana is 545 miles  across (877 km).  We have spent the last two days driving across it and have 123 miles to go tomorrow to the border with Idaho.  As mentioned yesterday this is cattle country, grain country, and cowboy country.  Almost every community has grain elevators and every farm has multiple silage silos.

IMG_2061 IMG_2063 IMG_2065 IMG_2075 IMG_2080IMG_2090IMG_2096I was quite excited to see the Sweetwater Hills, which were higher than many of the so-called mountains we have seen in the east.

IMG_2070 IMG_2083And then, just west of Cut Bank we saw the MOUNTAINS.  Yay!  It was like coming home; even if these are the smaller cousins of our Canadian Rockies.

IMG_2112We stopped for lunch at the marker for Lewis and Clark’s furtherest western exploration of the Marias River (this exploration was originally to find the headwaters of the Missouri River which they hoped was as far north as 50 degrees latitude.  According to the terms of the Louisiana Purchase the US received all the land south of the headwaters of the Missouri River.  If the Missouri headwaters were north of the 49th parallel the US could claim some of the land of Canada that was being commercially used by the British. They discovered the Marias River headwaters instead – the Missouri River headwaters are west of Great Falls.)

It was a shame to see the graffiti all over the marker; but quite normal out here to see the bullet holes. There was a big shotgun shell hole in the sign about the Sweetgrass Hills. We have seen bullet holes in many of the road signs since we arrived in ‘the west.’  It seems anything is fair game for target practice – or just fun to shoot at.

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IMG_2119 IMG_2120 IMG_2122 The views from the hill on which the Lewis and Clark marker was erected.

Another long train sitting on the siding.

It took another hour or so to get into the mountains, but I enjoyed the scenery of the wide open spaces as I alway do.

IMG_2123 IMG_2134 IMG_2135 IMG_2137 IMG_2139 IMG_2142Then were in the mountains and driving in and out of Glacier National Park along its southern boundary.

IMG_2143 IMG_2155 IMG_2162 IMG_2171 IMG_2174 IMG_2175 IMG_2177We have been here before on our first road trip in September 2007 after I had purchased Poppy.  It was nice to see the golden yellow of the Aspens again.

IMG_2158 IMG_2150 IMG_2153PS.  My favorite cloud photo from yesterday’s blog was number 7.  I really like how low the clouds look and how threatening to the lone bush out on the prairie.

 

 

 

 

 

 

2014 Oct 5 – Day 109 – Sidney, MT to Havre, MT

Today we drove almost half way across the Big Sky State of Montana (their actual state motto is The Silver State, but Big Sky used to be on their license plates and describes it perfectly for me) leaving behind most of the interesting bluffs we saw in western North Dakota.  We were on the big, old, almost-flat prairie. Most of the views were of cattle grazing, a few horses here and there, hay fields and open-to-the-horizon grassland.

IMG_1966 IMG_1971 IMG_1975 IMG_1977 IMG_1978I love Montana.  We came here several times during the years our son attended Montana Tech in Butte and we drove through the middle on one of our road trips a couple of years ago.  Even though there is not a lot of variation in the landscape the sky changes constantly.

IMG_1996 IMG_1998We stopped for gas not too far out of Sidney and this gal from Texas was filling up her giant Hummer.  I would love to have been there to see her clamber back into that thing.

IMG_1979We drove by a collection of derelict grain elevators (and lots of newer ones too)

IMG_2029We passed a railway siding with three VERY long stationary trains.

IMG_1987 IMG_1988We saw a selection of dinosaurs and other animals positioned on the hillside.  There is a Dinosaur Trail in Montana leading to seven or so museums and digs.

IMG_1989 IMG_1990 IMG_1994We went by these two lovely pinto horses and  I asked John to turn around so I could get their picture.

IMG_2050 IMG_2049I was able to snap a photo of this pueblo-looking church.

IMG_2055But my favourite thing to photograph as we drova along today was the sky and the clouds.  I kept telling myself to stop taking photos of them but I kept succumbing to temptation when the next formations came into view.  I have posted my favorite ten sky photos from today.  I would like a vote on your favourite.  Please just message me the number of the one you like the best.  I’ll tell you tomorrow if there was a clear favourite and which is my favourite.  Just for the fun of it.

IMG_2001   1.IMG_2008  2.IMG_2009   3.  IMG_2019   4.

IMG_2017 5. IMG_2037  6. IMG_2044  7.IMG_2052  8.IMG_2058 9.

IMG_2021 10.

 

 

2014 Oct 5 – Day 108 – Rugby, ND to Sidney, MT

Yay, yay, yay there was a change in scenery again and stuff to see today!  I loved all the coloured trees (as you could tell by the number of them in my posts) but we have been driving by coloured trees since leaving New Brunswick on September 22.  I was happy to see the prairie yesterday and even happier to arrive at buttes and bluffs as we drove west in North Dakota today.

IMG_1882 IMG_1900Before we left Rugby this morning we located the cairn marking the geographical center of North America just beside the highway on our way through town.  I took John’s photo, he took mine and as we were walking back to the truck another couple got out of their truck and offered to take a photo of us both. Sweet – and I don’t like having my photo taken as a rule – but I was glad to get this one.

IMG_1848 IMG_1854We are in the prairie belt of America – lots of sugar beets, vast plantings of sunflowers, corn, wheat and alfalfa.  We are also in oil and gas country.

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IMG_1871 IMG_1958 IMG_1897Sugar beets

A small corner of a massive field of sun-flowers.  We saw several of them well over a 100 acres in size.

Yesterday I was on Facebook chat with my cousin in Washington and told her our route for the day. She said, “Watch out for Williston, I’ve heard it is crazy there.”  “What makes it crazy?” I asked.  “The new oil.”  Well she was right.  Lots of trucks and equipment on the road, temporary housing units by the hundreds, full RV parks, trucks and trucks and more trucks at every hotel in town, new roads, upgraded railroads, new power lines, lots of businesses building.  And brand new pumps working in the fields 25 miles in all directions from the town.

IMG_1864 IMG_1893The Park Ranger we were talking with at Fort Union said he used to pay $800 per month for a one bedroom apartment in Williston.  He came home one day and was told his rent was going up by $400.  Now one bedroom apartments are over $2,000 per month and many are $100 per day.  The good and the bad about an oil or gas boom in the area.

Williston is quite near the North Dakota-Montana border and we turned south there on Route 1804 to see if Fort Buford State Park and Fort Union National Park were still open.  Just down the road for the turn to Fort Buford there is the Visitors Center for the Confluence of the Missouri and Yellowstone Rivers.  We turned in and went through the large visitor’s center to the pathway along the riverbank.  Up a short hill you could see over the young trees and just make out where the two rivers joined.

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Windy?  Just look at those flags.

 

 

Just down the road from the ‘meeting of the waters’ is Fort Buford.  There were only a couple of buildings reconstructed but the site was quite large and they had informative signage around.  The wind that greeted us outside our hotel in Rugby (with 1 degree celsius temperature – that’s about 33 F for you American folks.  Brrrr.) was blowing even stronger at Fort Buford.  It was literally hard to stand in one place.

IMG_1932 IMG_1920 IMG_1931 IMG_1925A mile further down the road is Fort Union, the longest running fur trading post (30 years) in America.  Back in the day there would be 5,000 tepees surrounding the fort belonging to various tribes bringing in hides to trade for blankets, colored fabric, guns, pots & pans and all manner of other goods (contrary to movie westerns beads were only thrown in as a bonus.  The Indians did not want to trade their hides for beads.  They wanted useful, practical things.  The inventory records of the fort showed only 5 trade transactions for beads in 5 years).  Over 50,000 buffalo hides would be traded at Fort Union every year, along with beaver, otter (prized in China for the robes of the Emperor and still desired by the Chinese today), fox, wolf, badger, even mice (the pelts were used to line gloves).

During the archaeological digs at the fort site they uncovered two million artifacts – beads, buttons, 6 different china patterns, fabrics, iron implements, nails, you name it they found it.  All but a few of the items are housed in the vault under the Bourgeois’s house (term for the fur trading company manager) because until funding is received to reconstruct some more of the buildings at the fort there is no room to display them.  Maybe some day.

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A fur press.  It would be used to compact 100 buffalo hides into a bale for shipping to EuropeIMG_1943We had a great chat with the Park Ranger.  There were no other visitors, and at this time of year there are likely not too many, so he was enjoying telling us stories.  One neat story (very shortened version, I promise) was about a troublemaking fellow named Deschamp who skipped across the Canada/US border in about 1865.  He had three rabble-rousing sons as well.

A few years ago a new RCMP officer from Regina was visiting the fort and saw the write up about Deschamp and the fact that he had killed a Lord Sutton before skipping to the US.  The officer told the ranger that the murder of Lord Sutton was still an open case in Saskatechwan.  When he returned to Regina he told his superiors about the information he had read at Fort Union, they contacted the Fort archivist, received corrobatvie documents and the RCMP were able to close a century-old murder case.

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16 miles down the road brought us to the border of Montana and the town of Sidney where we are camped in our hotel room for the night.  And the sun came out too….the wind didn’t quit but the temperature warmed up to 16 (62 F)!  All in all a pretty good day.

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